Za'atar and the Palestinian Breakfast Table

Ask Palestinians what they miss most about home and many will say breakfast. Not a quick bowl of cereal, but a table full of small dishes, fresh bread and a bottle of olive oil in the middle.

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What is za'atar?

Za'atar is both a wild herb, related to thyme and oregano, and the blend made from it: dried za'atar leaves, toasted sesame seeds, tangy sumac and salt. You tear a piece of bread, dip it in olive oil, then in za'atar. Families often pick and dry their own, and access to wild za'atar has at times been restricted, which has made it a symbol of attachment to the land.

The rest of the table

Around the za'atar you will find labneh, a thick strained yogurt drizzled with oil; olives; tomatoes and cucumbers; boiled eggs; hummus or ful; and sometimes falafel from a nearby shop. On weekends there may be manakish, flatbreads baked with za'atar and oil, or ka'ak, the long oval sesame bread sold on the streets of Jerusalem.

Tea with sage

To drink, there is sweet black tea, often with a sprig of fresh mint or maramiyeh, sage. Coffee usually comes later in the morning.

Making it in the UK

Middle Eastern grocers in London, Manchester, Birmingham and most larger cities sell za'atar, labneh and Palestinian olive oil. Look for fair-trade Palestinian oil and za'atar, which supports farmers directly.

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