Maftoul and Mujaddara: Palestinian Comfort Food for Winter

When the evenings draw in, Palestinian kitchens turn to slow, filling food. Two dishes come up again and again: maftoul, rolled by hand, and mujaddara, made from almost nothing and loved by everyone.

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Maftoul: rolled by hand

Maftoul means rolled or twisted. It is made by rolling bulgur wheat with flour and water into small pearls, larger than North African couscous, which are then steamed and dried. Making it is traditionally a job for several women working together, and a good batch lasts a family for months.

How maftoul is served

The classic way is with chicken, chickpeas and whole baby onions, all cooked in a broth spiced with caraway and allspice. The maftoul is steamed over the pot so it soaks up the aroma, then piled on a large tray with the chicken on top and a bowl of broth on the side.

Mujaddara: lentils, rice and onions

Mujaddara is brown lentils cooked with rice or bulgur, seasoned with cumin and topped with a heap of onions fried until dark and crisp. It is cheap, meatless and deeply satisfying, which is why it is eaten in homes rich and poor, and often on fasting days by Palestinian Christians.

What to eat with it

Serve mujaddara with plain yoghurt and a simple salad of tomato, cucumber and parsley. The contrast of the cool yoghurt and the sweet, crunchy onions is the whole point.

Cooking at home in the UK

Palestinian maftoul is sold in some Middle Eastern grocers and online, and pearl couscous makes a fair substitute. For mujaddara, all you need are green or brown lentils, long-grain rice, cumin, olive oil and plenty of onions. Take your time with the onions: the darker they get, the better the dish.

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